Lingerie-- the word evokes frothy, frilly,
erotic attire. But it wasn't always so. The term "lingerie" is derived
from the French linge, or linen, and thus makes direct reference
to the material from which underwear was traditionally made. By
the late nineteenth century, lingerie had become a generic term
commonly used to describe underwear that had moved beyond practical
function to become a tool of erotic pleasure used for the display
of the body. Lingerie was originally made for all sizes- including
plus sizes.
Lingerie was supposed to only be used by women within the confines
of a blissfully married life in the early years; with strict controls.
One female journalist penned in 1902, "Lovely lingerie does not belong
only to the fast. . . . dainty undergarments are not necessarily a
sign of depravity." As time passed, lingerie's attractiveness to the
general population increased along with decreasing adherence to Victorian
morality, and the increasing social status of women. Lingerie was
freedom from the practical and flagrantly straitlaced undergarments
advocated by the Victorian era. For example, a doctor of that time
period recommended wool as the perfect underwear for sanitation and
wellbeing.
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| At first, lingerie was a sign of social status,
handmade and afforded only by the very few. Of note were those fashioned
by the English couturiere known as Lucile (Lady Duff-Gordon), who
created camisoles, peignoirs, and petticoats using lace, chiffon,
and crepe de chine, deliberately appealing to the sense of touch,
and evoking a new eroticism for the twentieth-century woman. Although
synthetic fibers such as rayon and nylon were developed and sold in
the 1920s and 1930s as luxury fabrics through the use of the name "artificial silk" their
development led to a democratization of lingerie.
WIKIPEDIA SAYS-Nylon is a thermoplastic silky material, first used
commercially in a nylon-bristled toothbrush (1938), followed more
famously by women's "nylons" stockings
(1940). It is made of repeating units linked by peptide bonds (another
name for amide bonds) and is frequently referred to as polyamide (PA).
Nylon was the first commercially successful polymer and the first
synthetic fiber to be made entirely from coal, water and air.
The more body-conscious fashions of that decade also led to a new
item of lingerie, the teddy, named after its inventor Theodore Baer,
who combined a chemise with a short slip or attached panties. The
camisole, originally derived from a decorative waist-length garment
with an embroidered front and shoulder bands that were worn over the
cor for warmth and modesty, became a essential piece of lingerie,
later transforming into an item of outerwear by the 1970s. Similarly
the slip, a standard piece of lingerie from the 1950s was used by
a number of fashion designers as outerwear in the 1990s, most notably
John Galliano, Dolce & Gabbana.
Pajamas, designed after the loose pants worn in Asia, gained popularity as female
attire in the late nineteenth century, but long nightgowns remained popular,
even after women's skirts shortened in the early twentieth century. By the twenties,
straight-cut silk and rayon nightgowns in delicate colors such as orchid, rose
and snow were popular, while the mid-century favored gowns with strappy tight
fitting tops over flowing skirts. Mixtures and superimpositions make lingerie
an item of clothing in itself, so that fusion costumes like chemise jackets and
wide legged pants make up an unexpected wardrobe. During the twentieth century,
glamorous and lavish lingerie grew ever more available and affordable.
Today there is a continuance of the lingerie revitalization started in the 1990s,
with both male and female consumers. Lingerie's status as an appealing, emphatically
visible component of a woman's outfit has kept sales on an upward trend. It seems
that visible lingerie has become a strong style. Redefined lingerie is a reasonably
priced luxury item with a powerful appeal for the style conscious plus size consumer. |